I won’t be around much for the next two weeks, because tomorrow I’m setting off on an adventure through Turkey, Serbia, Croatia and wherever else I end up. I’m looking forward to it. I’ll be spending five days in Istanbul, then going on to Belgrade, Zagreb, Dubrovnik and Skopje. I’ll also be celebrating the big 2-3 in the homeland (i.e., Serbia), which is kind of neat. (Anyone know any Serbian birthday traditions? I just know how to say “cheers.”) I’m hoping to make it down to Montenegro for a day, but I’m not sure there will be time. And then it’s back to Athens, and from there a long trek back to New York, including a night in Zurich. Any suggestions of what to see/visit/eat/do in Istanbul, Serbia and Croatia are most welcome!
The fabulous Ms. Lauren will be guest blogging while I’m gone, so I’m sure you’ll all thoroughly enjoy my absense — and I’m sure you’ll appreciate a break from the Tom-Waits-dominated Friday Random Tens, and will embrace Lauren’s infusion of coolness back into the FRT. I’m crossing my fingers that Merle will make an appearance, too. And of course you’ll have Piny and Zuzu to hold down the fort. I’ll be popping in every now and then for some navel-gazing posts and maybe a few picture updates. I’ll also be showing up to guestblog for a day on a blog that, for now, I will keep secret (when that blogger makes the announcement, I’ll let you all know). I’ll just give you all the teaser that this blogger has a series of all-star guestbloggers lined up, and it’ll be an exciting week over there.
So now, it’s time for me to say yassas (or is it yassou?) to Greece. I’ve really enjoyed my time here, and I’m sad that it’s gone by so quickly. It’s not a bad life, going to the beach after work to read in the sun; going to Mihalis, the one restaurant in town, for Greek salad or fresh mussels or souvlaki for dinner; walking through the village as the sun sets, and getting an ice cream from the little shop owned by two sisters, where their kids play in front; then going to my little room and either reading or watching horrible American action movies on Greek TV (and I mean horrible: last night it was Cyborg Cop III, no joke). I spent my last Saturday going to Athens to buy tickets to Istanbul, then Sunday hanging out on the beach during the day and going to the Temple of Poseidon in the evening to watch the sunset. It was absolutely beautiful, and a nice way to spend my final weekend.
I will certainly miss living across the street from the beach, going swimming in the sea whenever I feel like it, wearing flip-flips to work, and night skies that are full of more stars than I’ve ever seen in my life. I will not, however, miss the bugs and getting so tan that my skin starts to peel off my face, despite my allegiance to sunscreen.
Last night all the interns went to the local restaurant, where the owner, Mihali, had promised to make us spaghetti with sea urchins — and he plucked the sea urchins fresh from the sea across the street. When we got there, though, it turned out that Mihali wasn’t the best with pasta — so one of the Italian girls and her boyfriend took over the kitchen, and made us an amazing meal. Spaghetti with sea urchins may be my new favorite thing. It was a nice way to end things.
And by 10am tomorrow, I’ll be on the train to Istanbul.
Now, pictures. The best of Greece:
As always, more here.
I’ll be in and out, and back for good sometime around August 17th.
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I’m so envious I could spit.
I definitely feel very, very fortunate to be able to do this. I’ve been surprisingly good at saving money while in Greece, travelling can be pretty inexpensive in Eastern Europe (especially when you’re willing to stay in hostels), and I figure that as long as I’m so close, I should go.
Did I mention you suck? You suck. I mean that in a fond, jealous, envious way. Ah, travel. I used to travel frequently through the Ukraine and parts of Russia, and if you get a chance to take a train—do it! I still harbor fantasies of buying a teeny weeny house in France in this little town where I stayed.
I found that travelling was good for the soul because it helped drive home the fact that most people really are good and decent, and that most people are pretty much the same. Everything else is details.
Oh, and you ARE going to the grand bazaar in Istanbul, right?
Yes, that’s definitely on the list. Honestly, though, I’m most excited about the food. :-)
That’s very true. Which is why it makes me particularly sad when we have, for example, Congressmen bragging about how they don’t even have passports because everything they need is right here in the goold old US of A. Travelling is certainly a privilege, but if more people who were able to take advantage of it actually did so, I think the world would be a much better place — and our international policy would probably look a wee bit different.
Those guys have no damned excuse. I found that the people who are so ‘English only’ at home are the ones who refuse to deign to learn simple polite phrases abroad—-”Please, thank you, may I?”—and so forth. I speak fairly crappy Frnech, compared to what it once was. But damn if every French person I talked to wasn’t patient and nice with me. And my French improved. In Russia, same thing. It’s embarrassing that simply politeness appears to be rare in Americans abroad.
God, I miss fresh hot baguettes.
In Istanbul: Avoid Topkapi palace, it’s way expensive and the really “cool” parts of the palace are off-limits; I wouldn’t say it was worth the money. I’d wished I’d gone to Capodoccia (sic?) instead.
Man, that is some serious calamari.
You are so lucky! Enjoy your trip!
I’m convinced that white building is made out of cake.
Dobar put, Jill! Summer evenings in Zagreb are best spent at outdoor cafe tables in Ban Jelacic Square, after a day of sight seeing (don’t miss the cathedral!) Take full advantage of the liter beer glasses (6-10 kunas, or about $1.50.) Yum.
Istanbul rocks! Make sure and eat a yogert and tomato sandwich, and get the turkish bath experience. Go into the city and hit the local music scene, drink and dance, I had so much fun in Istanbul!!!!!
I also agree with Mighty Ponygirl….Topkapi is over-rated.. I wasted an entire day there. Its better to head to Kusadasi and hit Ephesus. The views are amazing, the ruins and amphitheater wonderful and the apricots you can get on the path up yummy!!!!
Oh, one oddity I had to mention: the last couple of times I’ve been back to Croatia, this drink called “bambus” was really popular in my age group (mid-20s.) What’s in it? Red wine and coca-cola. Ugh. It tastes like robitussin, and hopefully has died out.
I was in Dubrovnik earlier this summer for a conference, and it was absolutely beautiful. That’s all I saw of the region, although I’m looking forward to going back next year. Dubrovnik has lots of seafood and great pizza. Have a great time!
I have no suggestions for you, but wanted to wish you a wonderful rest of the trip! The photographs are gorgeous – I will definintely have to add Greece to my (already long) list of places to visit.
I’m looking forward to reading about the rest of your tadventures. Have fun! :)
I’ve got no suggestions – except to have a terrific time.
I’ve also got no clue about Serbian birthday traditions; if they’re anything like Ukranian birthday traditions, it may include lots and lots of vodka. Pace yourself and have a great birthday.
I have no idea what its called but there’s a Turkish pizza that’s very thin flat bread w/a thin crispy layer of tomato/beef baked on it. You take parsley, squeeze lemon on top and roll it up, then eat it. A Turkish friend of mine did all the ordering when we went to a restaurant – she’s from Istanbul so let me ask her for her suggestions. She also ordered a sour salty thick yogurt drink – I’d avoid that, bleh.
Happy safe travels to you!
Pizza dish is called Lahmacun – she’s going to email me more tips and places to go later today!
Have a wonderful time. I’m planning on taking my wife (Croatian on one side) to Dubrovnik and Split next year, and possibly Zagreb too. I’ll be interested to read your observations…
Happy 23rd — it makes sense you’re a Leo…
Oh, and the sunset picture from Poseidon’s temple ought to be a postcard. Somewhere.
The last time I was in Greece was back in ’79. As I recall the ruins didn’t seem as old then…but my mind was a little clouded.
Have a great time.
Peace
Careful, Jill. Last time you spoke of travelling, your fellow bloggers audited your ass.
If youre going to Bodrum, email me and Ill put you in touch with my sister, who would be happy to show you the fun non-touristy side of Turkey.